I’m up early, carrying armfuls of my stuff out of the bunk room to the hostel lobby to get organized. I’d kept my damp clean socks in my sleeping bag overnight, so I have one dry pair. But everything else needs sorting out – wet/clean from wet/unwashed. A few items went awol in the night, so I wait for the pilgrim in the bunk below to clear out before going in search of my purse and ‘pillow’ – a pillow case stuffed with soft and important items.
I hear intermittent downpours outdoors, so decide to wait for the cafe upstairs to open for breakfast. After a morning café and some fruit and yogurt from my pack, I’m dressed for rain and waiting outside the alburgue. Since I didn’t venture out in the rain last night to check the route out of town, it seems wiser to wait for other pilgrims and follow in their wake. I see Darlene from Wisconsin, and join her for a good morning walk. The sun comes up, and although clouds are threatening and there’s a gusty breeze, the weather gradually clears to a cool and mostly sunny day.
There are a lot of vans and taxis cruising around today. Some are support crews for tour groups of pilgrims, others may be hoping to pick up some business giving rides to tired pilgrims, or transporting packs ahead to Palas de Rei.
At mid-morning break, I remove a few layers (poncho and fleece), have a snack, and walk alone until mid-afternoon, when I meet up with Debbie and Dean. The route isn’t as scenic as yesterday, but still worthy of appreciation. More stone walls, barns, and houses, lots of sheep, and little streams. There are interesting stone corncribs shaped liked little churches.
About an hour out of Palas de Rei Darlene and I stop at a shelter and make a plan to head for an alburgue on the far side of town. It’s a modern hostel over a bar and restaurant, very clean and well appointed. I hang yesterday’s still-wet clothes to dry, get cleaned up, and take a nap. Darlene and I meet up for dinner downstairs, sharing a small table and the ‘pilgrim menu’: Caldo Gallego, pork and potatoes, and a moister Tart de Santiago than the one I had last night. The Brazilian ladies I stayed with in Villa Franca de Bierzo are here as well, and we smile a reunion – pleased with ourselves to have made it this far.
After supper we walk uptown to the church. Pilgrims who start in Sarria need to get 2 stamps on their credential each day. I get a pass on that requirement, having started in St. Jean, but I get a stamp anyway. My credential is now full, but there’s still a bit of room on the back cover.
Only 70 km to go now. It’s tempting to push it and try to finish in 2 more long days, but I know now that the Camino sets its own pace. My cautious hope is to get up and on the road early, and have a good day tomorrow. I’d like to be in Santiago before noon three days from now, so that I can attend the Pilgrim’s Mass in the Cathedral before flying out the following morning.
Joy on the Camino 